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Dart Frog Aggression - prevention ?
#1
# 1 : Only keep similar size Tinc morphs together. While it is entirely possible to keep pumilio froglets in the parental viv, I would not do so with Tincs -especially frogs acquired from different sources or at different times.

"Put them all into the Vivarium together at the same time and do not add any new frogs into the group unless they are the same size" is always a decent saying to remember.
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#2
Make sure there are a lot of hidey spots and plants/leaves, and ways for them to get away from each other.

I moved my 2 auratus (apparently both males although I've only heard one call) to a new tank that was lacking in plants. Even though they grew up together since froglets, they spent the days on the glass, with the more aggressive one chasing the other up the glass. Dumped more plants in the tank (huge basket of philodendron Big Grin ) and now they are both calm on their own sides of the tank.
Do you know where your frogs have been?
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#3
Leaf litter combined with large leafed plants = Excellent visual barriers.

Remember, if the frog can't see the other frog.....they do not know they are in the Viv. "Out of sight - out of mind"

Cocohuts are ok, but they are so much more effective when combined with some decent leaf litter and dense plantings.
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#4
I think I've gotten very lucky with my Azureus. I added a younger but not too much smaller frog to the viv with 2 frogs that have been together in the viv since they were 4 weeks oow. I haven't noticed any aggression, all 3 hang out together and 2 sleep together.
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#5
Scatter the food in the viv and don't use a feeding station.

Picked this tip up from Rich. I dump the flies in my hand and blow them in. They go corner to corner, top to bottom. And they say Tincs don't climb much... Smile
Glenn
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#6
Just because frogs sleep together or eat together doesn't mean that there is no aggression. I've also heard this when people talk about their mixed tanks. Ex: "My azureus, my tree frogs, and my anole all hang out in the top left corner of the tank." No, that doesn't mean they're getting along. It just means they're in a 10 gallon tank so space is very limited.

I'm not addressing anyone in the thread... just giving my 2 cents.
Kitty Litter: As good as what goes in it...
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#7
Quite right Mitch.

Here's the one sign of documented (type) aggression / Agonistic behaviour:

"Statue Behaviour" - Frogs literally staring at each other, with one frog seeking to dominated the other. Often completely missed or misdiagnosed. Seriously.


Please...no Jedi, midichlorians or South Park- Mexican Staring frog jokes.
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#8
Feeding time is one of the best times to observe your frogs and gauge possible stress.

If everyone comes out to feed (and scattering flies is a good idea) and everyone feeds aggressively...similarly, then that's a good sign.

Feeding time will also let you gauge body size - most frogs have to stretch out and move around a lot to feed. You can often catch, issues, problems and illnesses at feeding time .Short tongue - not being able to judge distances and "missing the flies" ect. And of course, stress - usually just one frog (the bottom of the totem pole) that just doesn't come out and feed as aggressively as the other one or one(s).
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#9
'Agonistic ' behaviour - Frogs dominating by staring...statue like...not moving....staring....drilling a hole in the other frog via a little know Jedi mind trick.

Seriously...THIS is why stress in small herps / frogs is so very hard to recognize and notice.
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#10
Wow, some good advice here, thanks guys.
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#11
Another big ounce of prevention is for new hobbyists to not try to keep 4,5,6 or more frogs together.

Go easy. Go simple, when starting out. Get 2 for your first frogs, not 4 tincs. I just saw a post where a new person was arguing with older guys about keeping 4 tincs as his first dart frogs. WAY too much chance of female/female aggression.

Go SMALL when you are starting out. No need for a whole herd of frogs, or 'how many can I fit..."
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