Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Newbie~ Loads of questions
#1
First I'd like to say that I've been reading just about every post here and you guys all sound awesome! I've already learned a ton!

Next to my many questions:
1. How toxic are the dart frogs? I've read that some people say captive breed frogs are no longer toxic, others say highly, some mildly? I have two dogs and a cat I am worried about here.
2. I will probably be starting with a ten or twenty gallon tank, how many frogs would you recommend... I've heard two, but some say four, other say eight. I would love to breed them with time, but have heard to many and the extra's will end up dying due to stress?
3. From what I can tell the basic set up is a false bottom for drainage usually gravel for a few inches... with an area on the side that water can be drained from... on top of that soil... on top of that moss or bark or something... various plants I've heard that porthos (an ivy type) is great... and then hiding areas using huts or things... does that sound about right?
4. Lighting? What type of light is recommended? I've been hearing to leave it on for 12 hours (so I would put it on a timer) each day.
5. How hard REALLY, for a beginner are fruit flies?
6. Can you mix dart species in a tank to get more color, safely?
7. Anyone know of any GOOD breeders in Arizona?
8. Anyone recommend GOOD books to get to research? OR good websites for information?

Thanks ahead of time for the replies! And thanks to everyone who comments on this site I've learned a whole lot already!

Tammy
Reply
#2
hello,
1. i wont address that cause i dont really know the answer but as long as your careful or just not irresponsible they are not dangerous.

2. get a 20 gallon, how many frogs you get will depend on what type you get. 4 auratus, 2 tincs or azurues, 4 terribilis, its different depending on species
3. yeah, keep it simple but the truth is even the most advanced set ups are easy.
4. cheap and easy or expensive and easy T8 4 foot shop lights are my favorite and cost between 20-40 with bulbs.
5. fruit flies are really really easy, especially if only for 4 frogs.
6. Arizona Dendrobate Ranch,
8. Dendroboard Links, im sure here has a links page also just havent checked.
Reply
#3
I'm a relative newbie myself, but I think I can safely answer some of your questions.

1) captive dart frogs are non-toxic, period. I still wouldn't feed them to your dog/cat, but since they live in an aquarium with a tight fitting lid this shouldn't be a problem.

2) You can only keep a pair regardless of size unless you're talking leucs, auratus or one of the phyllobates and then I'll leave it to the experts as to how many you can keep in a tank that size, but I can't imagine you'd want to keep too many in that size.

3)That is correct.

4)We use a flourescent bulb made for plants. Got it at Home Depot, but others have different

5)Personally I found culturing fruit flies very simple. I found a good recipe and practiced before I got my frogs and I was lucky enough to have it work right off, the first time.

6) No, it's never a good idea to mix species. Stick to one species per enclosure.

7)I've heard good things about AZ Dentrobate Ranch
http://www.azdr.com/ but have never personally dealt with them.

8 ) www.saurian.net and http://www.blackjungle.com/ were two of my first and favorites for info in the beginning.
Reply
#4
In response to keeping one pair per tank... how do you find a pair without having more than that? I know it sounds like a dumb question... I've read when they get older they will hurt each other, but how old is old, and how do you tell if you have a pair? Will they just hang out and defend thier territory?

Sorry for being such a "newb"
Thanks for the replies! I emailed the az place already to see if when I head back to AZ after this vacation for hubby and I to go check them out!

Tammy
Reply
#5
You have a couple choices, you can get 3 or 4 when they are froglets and when they grow up you can tell if you have a pair and sell the spares, or you can buy subadults where the sexed can be guessed fairly accurately or you can buy adult pairs.
Reply
#6
I have noticed that at around a year or maybe a little sooner they will start to become territorial. I am sure this is more dependent on the individual frog. You may not see the aggression but if you notice one starts to get skinny and does not eat like normal then chances are there is some aggression going on if the other frogs are doing well.
Good luck with your frogs.

Mike
Reply
#7
Hi Tammy-

I went through my emails and didn't see one from you. I have been having some issues with my email account, so I apoligize for not responding to you.

If you would like to join the Arizona Froggers group, please get in touch with me, I would need your email address. We get together every other month or so at our house. Feel free to give me a call and set something up to come by sometime. (602-628-0212)

Thanks
Reply
#8
sounds like you are really on top of things, and further i totally agree with what folks have already posted. one bit of advice i would add is to get your fruit fly cultures going immediately. they are easy, but even the pros sometimes have problems (mold, mites, etc.) and it takes a bit of practice to get the right consistency...you don't want them to dry out or 'soup up' and there are a lot of factors which can contribute. anyway a bit of practice before the frogs are there needing to be fed may reduce stress later on.

also for me the beautiful tank and great plants are half the fun. 'AceKing' who answered you earlier in this post sells plants specifically for vivs, and can probably help you decide on some good plants (if it interests you), and can probably point you to some other good sources too. good luck and have fun....oh, and did anyone warn you that this is all very addictive?
Like Reply




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)