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Full Version: Quarantine - What is it and how important ?
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I've heard the word "Quarantine" used many times in reference to PDF's however I don't understand the full meaning of it.

My understanding is it is used to rid the PDF's of diseases and is there other uses for it ?

I am purchasing two "Dendrobates auratus "Super Blue" - Large Sub-adults" from black jungle. Will they need to undergo quarantine?

Thanks for your time,
~Peace
All frogs , be they from " very reputable " froggers or from the lowliest of the low, should be quarantined. Each and every one, no matter who you get them from.
There are a number of posts on how to go about a proper quarantine. A quick search should explain . Any questions after a search and I'd be glad to answer.

Rich
Thanks, I'm searching right now. :o

Edit: Ok I searched and didn't find much but I only have a couple questions.
1. How do I keep the quarantine container warm enough for the frogs?
2. Can I put the quarantine container inside the completed vivarium (with a lid on) or would that defeat the purpose.
3. What should I layer the bottom of the quarantine container with? If it should be the stuff i put in the vivarium can I use something else like a moist paper towel? :?:
Thanks in advance? Big Grin
Putting moist paper towels in the bottom with some leaf litter on top of that is fine. You will just need to change out your paper towels every few days. Putting the QT tank in the viv covered is, in my opinion, defeating the purpose. If your frogs are sick or has parasites, you could spread it from the QT tank to the permanent viv just by opening and closing both tanks. As far as the temp is concerned, keeping the room temp up would be the best way to keep the temp. up in the QT tank or container. If you have a light for the QT tank, that would help keep the temp up as well.

One other suggestion....search and read up on doing fecals for your frogs to check for parasites.
Candy
Thanks, but one more question, I can't exactly keep my room's temperature up because my roommate would not like it lol. But what if I have, I think its a 7 or 10 gallon and I split it into two sealed sides (with silicone) and transfer all my heater stuff to that tank and then bleach them later to kill anything that might have reached them?
I would skip the bleach. Overly paranoid people think all newly aquired frogs are teeming with stuff and they try to sterilized everything.

If you use too much bleach, say goodbye to your frogs.

Quarantine as it pertains to animal husbandry is more about observation and feeding than it is sterilizing and "de-germing" the animal.

If your frog has runny or bloody stools, or protusions, abrasions, worms, won't eat, bloat...these are the things that will reveal themselves through a few weeks of quarantine.

Resist the urge to "do too much" at first. Aim for the smaller simple things like correct temp, humidity, food, nutrients and observation.
One more thing. If you cannot get a stable room temp of @ 70, you are going to be in trouble.

"Hot rocks", tank heaters and heating by the use of lights are not going to work for good long term frog husbandry.

You'll need a decent ambient (room) temperature.
If I can keep the room temp at 68 would that be alright? I'll keep the tank at the PDF temp.
yes
So, I should definately quarantine them, right ?

How much does it cost to have the fecal exams for 2-4 frogs ?

Oh yah, and the quarantine containers aren't big enough to maintain the heat at 70F so will 68F be ok for a day or two ?

Are there any quarantine guides on the internet ?
Peace Wrote:So, I should definately quarantine them, right ?

How much does it cost to have the fecal exams for 2-4 frogs ?

Oh yah, and the quarantine containers aren't big enough to maintain the heat at 70F so will 68F be ok for a day or two ?

Are there any quarantine guides on the internet ?

Yes. Quarantine is advisable.

Fecal Exams can vary greatly in price depending on what Vet you use. I would use the amounts of anywhere from $15.00 to $45.00 per exam, per frog.

I have also seen deals where a Vet would look at 2-3 fecals from the same vivarium for a reduced / discounted rate. It's hard to advise on rates as there are so many variables when dealing with particular Vets, ect.

What do you mean "The Q-tine containers aren't big enough to maintain heat....." Again, you should be relying on "Ambient" or "Room heating" of around 70F to 79F. A slight drop in temps at night is ok, as long as temps go back up during the day.

There is more info here in the "Hospital - Injuries, Disease and Treatments" subforum .Just spend some more time looking around at various posts and ask more questions if need be.