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Full Version: "Help Desk level 1" Basic Frog fixes. 101
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The following are some very simplistic, but good, quick recommendations to apply to a Dart Frog that "isn't doin' well" or appears lethargic or "sick" until you can either get more information online or from a Vet that deals with exotics / Dart Frogs. Keep in mind that I am not a Vet and this information is what I would personally do. I am only providing it here as a thought provoking thread / topic and it is not designed to take the place of advice from a Vet. I encourage everyone to contact a Vet, should they have any questions or concerns about any animal that they own.


1.Increase the humidity. Whatever it is....percentage-wise....just Increase it. Spray more clean water in the enclosure. To be on the safe side and to simplify, I would use "Grocery Store Spring water". Do not use distilled, Reverse Osmosis or public "tap" water in this case. Make sure you have a Glass Top the covers @ 90% of your tank top.

2. Up the Temperature slightly- a couple degrees only. Unless it's already 80F or above, that is. So basically, if your temps are maxing out at 72F and your frog is not eating / doing well, up the Temps to 76F. AVOID temp swings - highs and lows, and shoot for a steady temp. Avoid drafts (near windows) and heat from direct sunlight as well. Do NOT use a heat rock, heating pad or large bulb on top of the cage .Use gentle "room temperature" increased heating.

3. Provide a lot of "Hides" - Pothos or Pothos-like plants, Coco huts, Film canisters, Cork Flats and Leaf Litter (my fav). Separate the frog from the others. If a frog "isn't doin' well" - Separate it into it's own enclosure.

4. Try to disturb the frog as little as possible - popping off the lid, digging around the tank excessively. You want to be able to see the frog occasionally and check on it, but not every few hours. Try not to overfeed fruit flies, so that they are not crawling all over the tank stressing out the frog.

5. Consider a simple Quarantine or Temporary enclosure with clean moist paper and hides like above examples. This will facilitate collection of fecal samples to provide to a Vet. SEPERATE the frog that isn't doing well, if it is in a tank with other frogs.

6. Try to feed dusted Smaller Fruit flies from a vitamin supplement and calcium supplement that is not out of date ,i.e not past the 6 month Expiration date listed on the side of the container. Try to only feed a few flies every day or 2 - more if the frog eats them all. If the frog is on the skinny side but shows a decent appetite - feed it as much as it will eat. You could also consider Fruit Fly larvae as it is a good food item to put weight on a frog.

6. (a) CHANGE you vitamins / Calcium products. If in doubt as to a lot of things, an easy, cheap try would be to replace your existing supplements and buy fresh, new ones.

7. If you are feeding crickets....Stop. Crickets are problematic for most darts and even small ones can crawl all over a sick frog and cause further stress. Use Fruit Flies instead of Crickets or Crix.

8. Post on a Dart Frog Only Forum and consider an exotic animal Vet. Try to provide pics to your postings.
I would add lowering lights to almost off levels when frogs are sick or stressed...and in some cases when they are perfectly fine.

Rich
"Thin' frog??

#1 - buy new/fresh supplements, preferably Rapashy. An easy and relatively cheap good, reasonable first step.

#2 - discontinue feeding ANY springtails. Feed only small dusted Melanogaster. The skinny frog needs powdered vitamins and calcium. Springtails are not going to get the needed powdered supps into the frog. Flies are. Dust all flies, every feeding,