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Lighthood/ cabinet= canopy...
#1
I was not sure what I was to call it in English, but I think I make sense...

- Am I safe to build the canopy as "lid" to prevent the darts from escaping??
In that way I didn´t have to have the light shining through glass, and I could also have UV- B mounted there... Yes?

Going something like this, from my reefkeeping years:
Flemming, Denmark.

http://www.regnskoven.dk/en/nature-cons ... de-sumaco/
(In English, about conservancy in Ecuador)
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#2
I am thinking about using 1x 75 Watts, and 2x39 T5 Dimmable...
Flemming, Denmark.

http://www.regnskoven.dk/en/nature-cons ... de-sumaco/
(In English, about conservancy in Ecuador)
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#3
That just looks like way too much light. I would buy two esstential tools, if you haven't already:

1. Temperature gun with red dot /laser - worth it's weight in gold.

2. Solumeter or whatever it's called. Registers light and colour - lumens.

I personally would never construct a Vivarium without a total Glass top. Frogs can climb very well and you'll have escapes or damaged frogs.
https://www.facebook.com/dartden/

https://twitter.com/DartDen


"Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana".
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#4
Aye. Thank you Phil.

Mmmm, yes...
- I was reading this one today by Rich Frye: "Has anyone tried lowering their lighting"?
post23176.html?hilit=light%20canopy#p23176

Uhh, I certainly would never wish to hurt them or cause them any damage... (!) (As I know, you know!) Wink
- Instead of the glass, I was thinking to put a "lid" on the canopy to prevent them from escaping!

I was hoping to hide all equips in the hood/ canopy, so those were not visible looking to the Vivarium...
- But I will of course follow advice!

Those 39 Watts T5 is length of the Vivarium. (And I do have a Dimming Controller, left over, from my days with Reefing!)
- You would advice me to skip that "Iglo" reflector, or lower the Watts? (Tank is 75 Centimeters tall.)

- I am not sure what Photon means?
- Is that equal to PAR (meter), or Lumen (meter) ??

Thank you one more time!

/Flemming.
Flemming, Denmark.

http://www.regnskoven.dk/en/nature-cons ... de-sumaco/
(In English, about conservancy in Ecuador)
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#5
(Some info just as sidenote... I guess I can run the Vivarium cost effective by high effeciancy,
I like how they distribute light!)

Manufacturer´s Specifications & Dimensions:

Some key elements that all the LumenBrights share:

1. Material made from a German metal fabricator named “Alanod” with a 95% reflective mirror finish
2. They all have 24 optical facets surrounding the lamps
to maximize every possible light reflection with its patent pending octagonal shape.
3. They come with an adjustable socket assembly allowing for 175, 250, 400, 600 and 1000-watt lamps.
4. They are available in pendant models as well as Fc2 250/400 watt DE lamp pendants.
5. They are 16.5% more efficient than any other similarly designed reflector on the market.
6. They all come inner wrapped in plastic to protect the shiny reflective surface.

Mini LumenBright 3’s – 16” x 16” x 7” (Shown in Pic.)

Large LumenBright 3’s – 20” x 20” x 9”

- Source:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2008- ... /index.php
Flemming, Denmark.

http://www.regnskoven.dk/en/nature-cons ... de-sumaco/
(In English, about conservancy in Ecuador)
Reply
#6
Flemming....you read Rich's thread on low light right? Basically, the lights are for the plants and you want a canopy of plants so the frogs will be able to get out of the light and feel more secure. The REAL big issue is you want to make very certain that your lighting does not increase the temperature inside the vivarium to a high level.

Your glass top will also serve to retain humidity. Unlike the a fish tank...a dart frog vivarium will lose humidity much, much faster - hence the need for a nice, well fitting top.
https://www.facebook.com/dartden/

https://twitter.com/DartDen


"Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana".
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#7
Thank you Phil... I will listen and take your advice as you have "Been there, done that" (!)

- Would you like me to write a thread, something like: "Do´s and Don´t"?? (!) :oops: :roll: :lol:

Nah, on the serious side. Yes, I read it... I will go by that and skip the LumenBright reflector.
- I was actually told by another frogger, and the frogs "don´t care one bit about sunlight" (!) Those kinda mixed informations makes it a bit frustrating to be a Newbie... Hence my concerns, and reason for my thread to make sure I get everything right!

In addition to that Rich Frye´s photos also tell how they life in the shades...
(- With a small "but" (!) These Watt outputs I was asking here is low, compared to real life)

- I will use the glass cover as you advice to better keep humidity high...
And I will use T5 Dimmable, with the controller so I can set maximum. And keep them of the glass as illustrated by photos!

Your time and efforts is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Flemming.
Flemming, Denmark.

http://www.regnskoven.dk/en/nature-cons ... de-sumaco/
(In English, about conservancy in Ecuador)
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#8
Reefing is easier! (!) Big Grin

- But Frogging is less expensive than I thought... I mean, on the eletrical bill. I just found! Wink

Flemming.
Flemming, Denmark.

http://www.regnskoven.dk/en/nature-cons ... de-sumaco/
(In English, about conservancy in Ecuador)
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